Calsac’s Champagne, especially “Les Rocheforts,” is one of the most exciting Champagnes of the last years, and...

Calsac’s Champagne, especially “Les Rocheforts,” is one of the most exciting Champagnes of the last years, and I’m not the only one who thinks this way. His wines are in high demand, for good reason. Les Rocheforts has incredible energy, salinity, and an attractive, limestoney quality, all wrapped up with masterful elegance. Just a tiny bit of dosage. 100% Chardonnay from the Côte des Blancs. The price is better than you can imagine, almost too good. Even when still young, it already shows its charming face, I do think it is even better in its youth. Until now, this may sound boring to you, since you’ve probably already drunk it. It’s been an Instagramable bottle and not exactly new. So this time I went for his Grand Cru Avize lieu-dit (Vintage 2018) Les Maladries. Zero dosage. And as expected from Avize - 100% Chardonnay from beautiful chalky soils. To me, it’s almost too creamy and even lactic, with big, cooked, ripe stone fruit. Still not really ready to drink. Good complexity, with a very modern twist -a touch of bitterness at the end. I guess I prefer my Chardonnay a little shyer. I didn’t find this bottle particularly enjoyable. Maybe we’ll meet again in 5–7 years… Or not. Until then, I’ll keep enjoying the humble Premier Cru “Les Rocheforts”, youthful and demanding. #champagnestudy #winediaries #cotedebar #champagnelover